Chinese wind generator

Welcome to my website, here you can see my diy wind generator project and knowledge how to make own with low investment.

This build is 1kw wind mill with 1kw eBay alternator and 84 inchs diameter wood blades. It is 3 blades style and it is good for medium to high wind conditions. If you are in low wind area i succest to make 5 or more blades wich makes it more torgue in low rpm (but it cant spin fast). Building own controller is higly recommended. This type controller is functional and cheap also it can deal with eny amount of current so its good for all 12 voltage wind generators. By just paying the wind generator and do the rest yourself it will pay itself back about in a year if wind conditions are good! And after that point it is free energy.

Remember that the tower where generator “sits” it is important to make it tall. On the ground level wind generator is almost useless. Getting it to 30 feet makes a world of difference. Little faster wind speed makes a lot of more watts output from it.

Carving the blades from wood may sound like a lot of work, but actually it taked only 3 hourn of work from me. And i am only very amateur woodworker. So it isnt that big deal and its lots of fun.

When you get your wind mill complete and it producess free and clean energy to you, it is a great feeling! Good luck!







This is permanent magnet altenator with iron core stator. Nominal power 750W and maximum power 900W. I bought this from Ebay and it cost 400$ and its fairly good price/power ratio. It has aluminium core and stainless steel end plates also it have completely sealed ball bearings so it is good for outside weather conditions like rain snow etc.



Blades is carved from wood. Pine or six. Start findin wood that is 1 inch thick, you maybe dont find 1″ by 6″ plank, so you have to glue 2 planks together or start with thiker, witch icrease amount of work. Tools you need is hand saw, spokeshave, sand paper, pen, gauge to measure lenghts and thicknes, and if you can get electric plane it is very handy and saves time and work. Note that you have to be very carefully with electric plane, you dont need shorter fingers. And if final blade is not exsactly like in drawning, it isnt world end. I have seen that even poorly maded blades like this are better than popular “pvc pipe blades”.

wind generator bades2

1. Start by making plank to 1″ thik 6″ wide and 35.1″ long

2.Plane down bottom side of the plank ( root 0.9″, tip 0.31″ as you can see in first image)

3.Plane top side of plank

4. Take spokeshave and make bottomside shaped like first pic, you need also plane here

5.Cut root and make it 120 decrees sharp

6.Sand it everywhere with 240 or one step rougher sand paper

Note: Angle that facing in wind side is higer at root and less in tip. That is because tip travels faster than root when blade is spinning.


Painting the plades is very important, because if blades sucks water they will swell and crack and that is not what we want. paint blades with 50% blended alkyd paint (blended with mineral spirit) paint as meny coats that it covers wood completely. That takes maybe 3-5 coats. Let it dry least a week to make it completely dry, then use epoxy paint primer and make 2-3 coats and let it dry. Last paint it with 2 component car paint to the final statement, white is nice color. I guarantee that the paint last 10 years at least.

Here is pics of complete blades

wind generator Blades3

wind generator blades4

wind generator blades5

wind generator blades6



And pic of center plate where blades are bolted.






I started finding suitable pipe witch diameter is close to generator diameter and cut it like in picture. Then i cut 2 round plates from 0,20″ material. The bearing pipe in bottom of the picture is cutted from bicycle.


I made another piece and welded it like that.



I cut it open to make service hatch to it. Slip ring goes inside. In left side you can see the pma.


I latched litle hub to generator shaft witch support blades better but it isnt really necessary.


I welded 2 tailpipes to it. End of tail pipe helm is fixet. Then i sprayed little primer. Tail pipe looks like it is bent because it is bent. I have to remake that, it is not looking good right now.



Now the tail is lined up better and i made helm end of it.



Final paint coat sprayed.



All diy wind generators needs a brake for very high winds and storms. Otherwise blades will over running and destroy, especially wooden blades. Alternator may also broduce too much heat and burn stator wiring. My first plan was to make electric brake which connects alternators 3 phases together but after seeing pictures of burned alternator which used brake like this I made decision to do braking other way. This type brake ystem is called tail furling. It is mechanical system which turns blades out of wind direction. When blades are turned out of wind direction its power and rpm drops and protect it from failure. For more information and calculations read this link: Furling

After calculations I started to make the furling tail to my frame. I gut off whole tail pipe and made adjustable angle to it. Now I can fine tune it. Whole thing looks like a ugly duckly, but lets hope it works.







Welds looks like shit but I only tagged it and then welded it better.

Charge controller


Click image to make it full scale.



-R1 – 100 Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R2 – 330 Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R3, R4, R5 – 1k Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R6 – 10k Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R7 – 33k Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R8 – 5,6k Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-R9 – 39k Ohm 1/4 Watt 1%

-VR1, VR2, VR3 – 10k ohm Preset Trim-Pots

-LED1 – green LED

-LED2 – Yellow LED

-RLY1 – Car relay Changeover type 5 pins, 70amp

-Q1 – 2N3904 NPT Transistor

-Q2 – 7805 5volt positive voltage regulator

-Q3 – IFR540 Mosfet

-U1 – NE555 timer chip

-D1 – 1N4001

-D2 – 1N5406

-C1 – o.1uF 35v 10%

-C2 – 0.33uF 35V 10%

-F1 fuseholder with 1 Amp to 3 Amp Fuse

SW1, SW2 – No momentary Contact Push Buttons

With Potentiometers you can optimise the closing and pull out voltage levels. For normal car battery I succest to set 11.9 volts to low and 14.8 to high level. Dont use higher level upper level than 15 volts because that would boil the batteries! Use multimeter to measure accurated voltage levels.

I found this controller on internet and i have built 3 of these and they work very good and they are cheap. If you dont have eny electronic skills you may buy complete unit from eBay I found couple of good controllers there with reliable price. Search eBay with these words “Wind generator controller”, i succest the “dump load” type controller because they can take eny current and there is no literally eny power losses! The dumbload where turbine dumps current should be something usable, like water heater element for home hot water systems, or it can be just a group of resistors that heat air in your home.

Controller is important system in wind turbine systems. It simply takes current out of batteries when they are fully charged. Over charging could cause batteries to boil and ruin them permanently.

Basic principle


this diy wind generator produces 3 phase AC voltage. That is retrified to DC voltage with bridge rectifier. Then controller “snifs” the battery bank voltage level and if it is lower than 14,7 volts (you can adjust that level) it delivers DC voltage to batteries, when batteries are fully charged and battey bank voltage level rise above level 14,7 voltages, then controller dump the windgenerator output to dump load.

You can use battery bank 12 voltage source to enything you want and it it primary windpower output source. You can convert battery bank 12v voltage to normal 120VAC “home electric” with inverter. Check eBay search for “power inverter 12v”. I succest iverter that can cut out the power if battery bank voltage gets too low, that will increse your batteries life dramatically. And batteries can live up to 8 years.


Other parts:

Bridge Rectifier

Bridge Rectifier